We didn't have Baku on our list, but we needed to pick a layover city where we could fly to Tbilisi from as there were no direct flights from London last summer. Baku was one of those cities; given the title of this post, you've probably guessed where we picked! Here's what we got up to in our 2.5 days in Azerbaijan's capital city:
How to get there and how to get around:
Flight time to Baku from London is around 5.5 hours. We flew overnight with Azerbaijan Airlines on a flight that was probably 95% empty. Efficient but the only downside is we got to our hotel at 7.30am after our night flight which meant a long, exhausting first day exploring. You'll need to download the Yango app for taxis (Uber won't work if you have a non-Azerbaijan credit or debit card, for some reason), and you're looking at roughly £1.80 to £3 to get around Baku, which is what we did. To get to/from the airport it cost us a mere £5.10. There is a Metro but you need to purchase a card to use it; fares cost around 25p per journey.
What to do:
My favourite thing in Baku was the
Heydar Aliyev Center, which is the most stunning building in Baku (it's a Zaha Hadid one). So you have to make sure you go and admire it - from both the outside and in. Entry cost 25 manat (£11), which included a car exhibition (optional extra), and if you're anything like us you'll spend as much time admiring the building from the outside as you do looking at everything that's inside.
On the inside you've got the aforementioned car collection in the basement, if you choose to add that to your ticket, plus a lot of art. The usual permanent collection - which includes one of Yayoi Kusama's "Flowers that Bloom Tomorrow" pieces - and temporary exhibitions, such as Yue Minjun's "Garden of Smiles". This is definitely the one place you shouldn't miss if you're in Baku. It's closed Mondays, so bear that in mind.
Speaking of art, we also went to the Baku Museum of Modern Art (entry costs 5 manat, which is around £2.23). Which was the most over-bursting space of art you will ever see. (Including two Picassos they get very protective over.) And a great way to see art that you're just never exposed to in Europe/America. Honestly, I discovered so many new (to me) fab artists in that gallery. Highly recommend you head there if you're into modern art.
Exploring the Old City/Inner City (Icherisheher) is obviously another must. And it is old, the fortress walls date from the 12th Century. Here you'll find the Museum of Miniature Books which is, apparently, the only museum in the world dedicated to miniature books. Not sure if that's true, but they do hold the Guinness record for housing the most miniature books in the world - and it's free, so worth popping in.
When we were there it was a few weeks before the F1, which meant that the city was getting ready to turn into a circuit as the Grand Prix takes place throughout the city. Cool to see it get set up, though more annoying for the taxi drivers as the the roads are transformed with barriers, seating and a pit lane getting added. If you head towards the Crescent - the eagle-eyed amongst you may clock that it's shape is also on the country's flag - this is where you'll find the pit lane and the start of the race.
You can walk from the Crescent, down Baku Boulevard (also known as Dənizkənarı Milli Park) where you'll get a great view of the Flame Towers, but you'll also end up at Mini Venice, the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum and the Caspian Waterfront Mall (named because Baku is on the Caspian Sea; though it's not a sea, it's actually a lake as Azerbaijan is landlocked). We didn't take an electric gondola in Mini Venice, funnily enough, but we did go in the Carpet Museum (10 manat entry fee; about £4.45). Not a must if you're going in the Heydar Aliyev Center as there's carpets in there, too. Negligible though as it is only a few quid to get in. (And there's air con!)
Finally, from there you can walk up to Highland Park for Martyrs' Lane and another view of the Flame Towers. (There is a funicular that runs up there, if you don't fancy the walk.) Once it's dark, various projections are shown on the Flame Towers, which truly do dominate the city of Baku. For me, they are to Baku as to what the Empire State Building is to NYC.
Where to eat:
We had breakfast at Merci Baku where I tried the traditional Azerbaijanian dish pomidor čigirtma (eggs and tomatoes). Lunch at The Cheese Gastro Club (which doesn't exist any more so pointless saying more!) and dinners at Galateya (cute wine bar but average food so maybe just have a drink there) and Dolma (a great place to try lots of local dishes).
Anything else?
We stayed at the
Fairmont Flame Towers, right by Highland Park. The hotel occupies one of the towers and since it's Azerbaijan, the price point of the Fairmont is much cheaper than it would be in the West. We didn't need cash during our stay so no need to exchange any currency. x
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