Holidaying in Jordan

If you're after an adventurous holiday taking in historical sights, and maybe even snorkelling over a sunken tank, then Jordan is the place to go. We had an amazing two-week adventure there.

When to go:
You're going to want to get this right because it is seriously hot in Jordan over the summer. We went late September to mid-October where temperatures were between 30-38°C. March to May or October and November seem to be the best time to go if you're not a fan of the heat. 

What to wear: 
Whilst Jordan is quite Western, in some regards, you do need to be covered up if you're a woman. At least to your knees. I wore knee-length dresses in Amman, the switched to linen trousers and shirts in Wadi Rum and Petra to keep protected from the sun whilst we were been super active. In resorts like Aqaba and the Dead Sea you can wear what you'd usually wear if you were by the sea in Europe.  

How to get there:
We flew from London Heathrow to Amman, the capital, with British Airways and used a companion voucher. It's a 5 hour flight that lands past midnight, and that's unfortunately on a Club Europe plane, not a Club World plane, so no flat-lie bed. The only other public airport in Jordan is in Aqaba, and the majority of the flights to Aqaba are from Amman.

How to get around:
In Amman, Ubers are best. To get around the city it cost us 2-3JOD (£2.30-£3.50) - the roads in Amman do tend to have you driving back on yourself with how they are structured, we noticed. We then used a driver to explore the north of Jordan; he cost us £133 for the day.

     

To get from the airport we arranged a transfer when we arrived so we weren't waiting around in the early hours; we just used Uber to head back there to catch our flight to Aqaba. We hired a car once we arrived in Aqaba and used it for the rest of our holiday, but you could drive from Amman to Aqaba in 4.5 hours. That flight to Aqaba only cost us 25.95JOD each (£29) and took us about 40 minutes which seemed a better way to do it - we dropped our hire car back off at the airport in Amman. 

But you don't necessarily need to hire a car. Taxis would probably work out around the same but, obviously, you do have more freedom. Petrol is cheap - we spent about £30 to drive 486km. And it's easy enough to drive, though watch out for speed bumps and be aware that the locals take a relaxed approach to lanes and using their indicators.  

You may also be stopped by the police whilst you're driving, which is perfectly normal. The first time they asked us where we were from, then waved us on our way. The second time we had to show the car registration card - make sure your rental car has it before you leave, and make sure it is in date! You may also be asked to show your UK driving license and your 1949 International Driving Permit (Olly got his from the Post Office; it looks like they are now only sold here).

How long to stay: 
I'd recommend ten days to two weeks to really get a sense of the different sides of Jordan. We flew into Amman and spent four nights there (the first night we got to the hotel at 2am which scuppered our first day as we woke up late). That's plenty of time to explore Amman and then take a day trip north to visit Umm Qais, Ajloun Castle and Jerash. We were in Aqaba two nights - a great spot to snorkel in the Read Sea - and then we drove to Wadi Rum (about an hour).

We spent two nights there. Exploring the desert and hiking to the top of Jabal Umm ad Dami are two great things to do in Wadi Rum. We then stayed in Wadi Musa for two nights (it's a two-hour drive from Wadi Rum). Petra is the big highlight of here - you'll have an amazing time - and then I'd recommend finishing your holiday off at the Dead Sea. We stayed there three nights - and it's an hour's drive back to the airport in Amman. 

Anything else?
If you're staying for more than four nights - and you really should! - you want the Jordan Pass which includes your visa (usually 40JOD). We paid 75JOD each (£86) for the two-day Petra pass version. It's 55JOD if you just bought the Petra ticket so definitely worth doing it this way. Plus you get free entry to lots of other places around Jordan - full list here.

And before you leave the airport make sure you pick up a SIM card (or sort out an eSIM). We paid 30JOD (£34) for one which we used in a MiFI unit we've had since our Vietnam trip. Other than that, have an amazing time! x